Travel Dates: August 3rd to August 17th, 2023
How much travelers: 2
Budget: $$$+
LGBTQ 🏳️‍🌈 : Very welcoming.

French version

Iceland has been on our travel bucket list for a long time due to its diversity and unique character. So, it was the perfect destination to celebrate our tenth anniversary as a couple.

We now head for the Geysir geothermal field (driving time: 50 mins). It’s an impressive place and very popular with tourists. There are plenty of amenities, including a large parking lot, hotels and a petrol station. We only have to cross the road to see the active geysers. Geysir itself is no longer active, but Strokkur still erupts every 8 to 10 minutes. It’s best to come early in the morning or late in the day, when it’s less crowded (especially before or after the arrival of the day-trip tourist buses).

We then drive to Gullfoss, a multi-storey waterfall. Parking is completely free. Driving time: 10 mins.

To round off the day, we had booked access to the Secret Lagoon thermal baths, a 22-minute drive from Geysir. That’s fine, but if you only want to do one thermal bath, just wait. We’re talking here about an entrance fee of ISK 3300.

We chose our entrance around 7.00 pm and stayed for about 1 hour. We then headed back up to Geysir, where our hotel, the Litli Geysir Hotel, was located. Good value with breakfast included.

Recommendation for a nearby restaurant: Skjol Kaffi. Very good pizza.

DAY 2 – HEADING FOR SOUTHERN ICELAND

We refuel at N1 Geysir and head south to Seljalandsfoss. Driving time: 90 minutes.

This is a 60-metre-high waterfall where you can take a walk behind the cascade. Be sure to wear good shoes here, as it can be very slippery. Afterwards, we don’t return to the car immediately. We continue along the trails to see the Gljufrabui waterfall, hidden between the cliffs. It’s worth the 900 ISK parking fee (and it’s very busy).

We then head for the second waterfall of the day, Skogafoss. Driving time: 30 minutes.

An observation platform has been installed to admire it from the top (60 meters). There are 370 steps to reach it. The view from the ground is just as beautiful. Parking is free, and it’s also a nice place to grab a bite to eat from a grocery store in Selfoss, a town we’d passed on the way.

We then drive 10 mins to see the wreckage of an American Douglas DC-3 that crashed here in the 70s. Parking is charged at ISK 700. Parking is far from the wreck. You have a choice: walk 45 mins to get there and 45 mins back, or take a shuttle bus that covers the distance in 15-20 mins at a cost of 2900 ISK per person.

We had decided to walk to get there, as the route was relatively flat. We were wrong. It was a long way across the glacial spreading plain, but we made it. There were a lot of people at the wreck, but it was worth it (for me, an aviation enthusiast). Good news from there: it’s possible to pay for the return trip by shuttle bus only, for 2,000 ISK per person.

We end the day at the black sandy beach of Reynisfjara. Driving time: 20 minutes.

It’s simply magnificent. There’s a majestic grotto surrounded by basalt. Take time to savor the moment. Parking is charged, but I think we forgot to pay. Oops.

The day’s stops are over and we head for the town of Vik, where our AirBnB for the evening is located. Driving time: 10 minutes.

We recommend this accommodation without hesitation. A grocery store is a 5-minute walk away, and we can also fill up with petrol afterwards.

DAY 3 – MORE FROM THE SOUTH COAST

We drive to the Fjadrargljufur Canyon. Driving time: 50 minutes.

It’s simply magnificent. It was made popular by a Justin Bieiber music video. Parking is charged at ISK 1,000. You can fly your drone here, but beware: the signal becomes weak in the canyon. The risk of losing your drone is high (but the footage is breathtaking).

Second and last stop of the day: Skaftafell National Park. Driving time: 60 minutes.

I recommend the 60-minute round-trip hike to the glacier. Once again, it’s incredible. Bring layers, as the temperature drops close to the glacier. There is a parking fee of 1000 ISK (±11$CAN).

We continued on to the hostel where we would be staying (Skyrhúsid Guest House). Driving time: 55 minutes

It’s a nice place. On the way, you’ll pass the glacial lagoon of Jokulsarlon. Try not to look, to save your surprise for the next day. There’s no grocery store nearby. Plan your meals accordingly.

DAY 4 – GLACIER LAGOONS

This was probably our favorite day of the trip. We left our hotel around 8:00 a.m. for Diamond Beach. Driving time: 10 mins

It’s a magnificent black-sand beach where chunks of ice wash up on the beach. The morning light is perfect.

On the other side of the road is the Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon. You can walk or move the car. It’s one payment for both parking lots 1000 ISK. It’s a place where we could have stayed for hours admiring the scenery.

We headed for the Fjallsarlon glacial lagoon, where there are far fewer people and free parking. Driving time: 10 minutes.

This is where we decided to take a zodiac expedition between the glaciers. It’s worth every penny: ISK 9,300 per adult and ISK 4,600 per child.

We decided to return to Jokulsarlon for dinner where there was the Nailed It Fish And Chips foodtruck. It was the best fish and chips I’ve ever had in my life.

Our day was done, so we had to improvise. Our choice was The Viking Cafe in Stokksnes, just past Hofn. Driving time: 70 minutes

The cafe is nice for a snack, but that’s not all. It’s also a hotel and a site to visit, with access to magnificent viewpoints and a replica of a Viking village built for the filming of a movie (which never took place).

Our accommodation for the evening is in Hofn. It’s a small town with all the services you need: grocery store, gas station, restaurants… By the way, I recommend the scampi sandwich at Hafnarbudin.

DAY 5 – EASTERN ICELAND

The main purpose of this day was to get us from Hofn to Seydisfjordur, where we had booked our accommodation for the night. It’s a pretty little town, but you have to cross the mountains to get there. The roads are winding. For those afraid of heights: don’t look sideways.

All in all, we’re talking about a 4-hour day trip. Along the way, take the opportunity to stop at these points of interest:
– Hvalnes lighthouse
– Fauskasandur beach
– Djupivogur

Google Maps will suggest a route that doesn’t pass through Faskrudsfjordur. It’s certainly faster, but not as beautiful.

DAY 6 – HEADING NOTRH

More driving, but well worth it. We leave Seydisfjordur early in the morning for the Hengifoss waterfall. This waterfall is high up in the mountains, so you need to allow plenty of time to reach it. It’s good exercise and well worth the trip. Parking is free, but arrive early.

Once we’d finished at Hengifoss, we headed for the west bank of the Dettifoss waterfall. Driving time: 2h15

This is one of the most powerful waterfalls in Europe. It’s awe-inspiring. Bring a poncho! The road to the west bank is well maintained and parking is free. It is possible to go to the east bank, but the road would be less well maintained, if at all.

We end the day’s journey by driving to Lake Myvatn, where there are many things to do. Driving time: 50 minutes

Before heading to our accommodation for the next 2 evenings, we make two stops:

Leirhnjukur: A geothermal area where a lava field still smokes. Access free of charge.
Myvatn Nature Bath. This is one of the real alternatives to the Blue Lagoon and tickets cost ISK 6490 per person. Recommended.

DAY 7 – LAKE MYVATN AND HUSAVIK

That morning, we visited the Myvatn pseudocraters (parking is free). I found it interesting, but nothing more.

Next, we made our way to the Hverir geothermal zone. I much preferred this stop. Parking is ISK 1,000. You’d think you were in a desert.

We had booked an expedition at 12:30 p.m. for a whale-watching cruise in Husavik (and yes, we saw a few). The expedition costs ISK 11300 and parking is free. We recommend it. Interesting highlight: Husavik is about 50 km from the Article Circle.

It takes between 30 and 45 minutes to get to Husavik.

DAY 8 – THE ROAD TO AKUREYRI

Not to be repeated: We hadn’t finished our list of things to see in the Lake Myvatn region. Poor organization on our part. In hindsight, we should have opted for the morning expedition to Husavik and then gone on to Akureyri to complete the Lake Myvatn loop.

We left our accommodation early in the morning to finish our tour of the Lake Myvatn region We completed with :

Dimmuborgir: This is a field of giant lava rocks. It’s one of only two places in the world where you can see them.

Hverfal: A giant crater. Parking is charged (around C$10), but it also gives access to toilets. It’s a good climb. Be ready and prepared. Don’t be so surprised: it’s a long 2.5 KM dirt road to get there.

Once you’ve finished, you’re back on the road to Goðafoss, with its magnificent waterfalls on the side of the road. Driving time: 30 mins at most.

We head for Akureyri once the stop is complete. We continue along Route 1. Be careful, there’s a huge tunnel before entering the town. You have to pay on their website within 24 hours of using it, or within 24 hours of passing through (1650 ISK). Driving time: 30 minutes.

Akureyri is a beautiful town where you can walk around and enjoy the moment. There’s a magnificent viewpoint just outside the tunnel. We took the opportunity to visit Iceland’s Aviation Museum. I loved it, but I’m a confirmed aviation geek (1500 ISK per person).

Restaurant suggestion: we absolutely wanted a good restaurant to mark our 10th anniversary as a couple. Our choice was Strikið. Expensive, but worth every penny. I highly recommend the table d’hôte with scampi sushi.

DAY 9 – DRIVING EAST

We leave Akureyri early in the morning for a day’s drive. It’s a long day’s drive (a good 4h00) and we only have two stops on the agenda.

First stop: Glaumbær Farm & Museum. The museum features the old peat houses so emblematic of Iceland (2000 ISK). Driving time: 1h15.

Back on the road for a long while. Plan to go to the toilet before leaving the museum parking lot.

Second stop: Grabrok crater. This is another large volcano crater where you can climb to the top. The circuit is superbly laid out, with lots of steps. Driving time: 2h15.

We end our day’s drive with the final straight to Borgarnes. Nice little town with services (grocery store, gas station, etc.). Driving time: 25 minutes.

It was in this region that we found one of the best AirBnBs of all our travels. A little corner of paradise in the middle of nowhere, but strategically placed for our next two days. The hosts will offer you a tour of their property on horseback. Again, worth every penny.

DAY 10 – THE SILVER CIRCLE

The Silver Circle is a place where you can see it all: hot springs, geothermal energy, an ice tunnel, a historic village and a lava field with a huge volcanic cellar.
Our tour is a loop with the following stops:

Deildartunguhverla: Europe’s most powerful geothermal spring.
Reykholt: A small, historic village, but one that can be passed quickly.
Hraunfossar and Barnafoss: Waterfalls on a lava field and an active river.
Husafell: A service center for the region surrounded by trees (we hadn’t seen many).

And I’ll save the best for last: Vidgelmir. Quite an adventure. It’s a descent along an immense lava tunnel (7500 ISK/person – Allow 90 minutes).

Another possible activity: Into the glacier. This is an opportunity to walk under/on the Langjökull glacier. We made choices, so we didn’t do it.

Take your time and plan a good day. And if you finish before then, return to the AirBnB to enjoy the terrace.

DAY 11 – THE SNAEFELLNES PENINSULA

It’s a must: you’ll see a bit of everything in Iceland.

It takes a good 75 minutes from Borgarnes to get to Grundarfjörður, a small town with a port where cruise ships stop.

We then start the peninsula loop from Grundarfjörður, stopping at the following points:

• Kirkjufell: a breathtaking mountain with waterfalls in the foreground. Paid parking (ISK 1,000)
• Saxholl crater: the view from the summit is magnificent, with the glacier in the background.
• Londrangar: A lighthouse on one side and a lava field on the other.
• Arnarstapi: Superb view of the coastline.
• Budakirkja: A black church. Beautiful. Nothing more.

It was the right time of year to see the puffins. We had chosen an expedition departing from the port of Grundarfjörður (Laki tour – June to August – 6900 ISK/person).

Once completed, we return to Borgarnes. All in all, we completed the tour in around 8 hours.

DAY 12 ET 13 – REYKJAVIK AND SURROUNDINGS

We end our road trip by heading for Reykjavik, about 60 minutes’ drive from Borgarnes. On the way, stop off at Akranes to see its lighthouses and beach. Just for a look.

Once in Reykjavik, what to do? Personally, we love walking in capital cities to admire the architecture and the lives of its inhabitants. Here are a few recommendations:

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur : Reykjavik’s signature hot dogs. So good for lunch on the go. Not the kind of hot dog you’d find in Canada.

Eimverk Distillery: A local distillery producing whisky and gin. You can take a tour of the distillery accompanied by a tasting. They welcomed us with a good (but really good) gin and tonic. Afterwards, we try three kinds of gin and seven kinds of whisky. Big tip: take a cab. We can’t drive after this tour. You can also take bus #1 ($43CDN via GetYourGuide).

A free tour of Reykjavik: The company offers you the chance to take a walking tour of Reykjavik with a guide. It’s a must-do. We learned a lot about the city and Iceland. They say the tour is free, but it’s not. We’re asked for a contribution of whatever we think it’s worth (they’ll take any currency or can even pay over the Internet).

Blue Lagoon: Is it a tourist attraction? Not at all. Yes, it’s expensive, but it’s truly a unique experience. The Blue Lagoon is said to be one of the 25 wonders of the world. The basic package gives you a drink at the pool bar and a face mask. The facilities are very clean and fairly high-tech. Not going to the Blue Lagoon is a bad economy. It’s 45 minutes from Reykjavik. So make sure you get there by car or by organized transport. While you’re there, check out two points of interest in the area:

• Gunnuhver: A fairly active and impressive thermal spring.
• Brimketill: A beautiful Icelandic coastline with lava.

The VERDICT

This itinerary will take you all over the country. Thirteen days is enough, and we wouldn’t change much in our choices. That said, I suggest you do this itinerary… the other way round. You’d end up with the most beautiful attractions (the lagoons in particular).

Let me know if you use it.

Have a great trip!

Émilie

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